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Unlike their short-lived counterparts, perennials are typically cold-hardy plants that will return again in the spring. They usually bloom for only one season each year (either spring, summer, or fall), but there are also re-blooming and long-blooming perennials.
When grown in favorable conditions, perennials often live a long time, but don’t assume they will last forever. Their life span is variable, and some may live for only three to five years. Perennials also vary greatly in terms of their care and maintenance. Some may need to be pruned and divided regularly to maintain their vigor and keep them tidy, while others are tough and undemanding, seeming to thrive on neglect.
Availability is ever changing, so we may or may not have specific plants in stock that are shown here.
The common name, Bishops Hat comes from the Epimediums flowers resemblance to headwear worn by members of the clergy, called a biretta. The Latin word semper translates to always, while virens means green. Together they refer to this plant being evergreen.
Bishops Hat is a drought-tolerant ground cover for the shade garden that spreads by rhizomes and is native to Japan. It prefers light to moderate shade in average to organically enriched, medium moist, well-drained, acidic soil. The 1-2 inch blooms are held above the foliage in tightly packed racemes in spring and range in color from white to purple depending on the cultivar. The plant will form nice clumps in time. The foliage is also attractive with spring and fall color changes. It is evergreen in zones 7 and above, while semi-evergreen in cooler zones.
Use Bishops Hat in shady borders, rock gardens, woodland areas or line a walkway. Established plant can hold water through their rhizomes, making this plant both dry soil and drought tolerant.
It is a low maintenance plant, however, any foliage that does not make it through the winter months should be cut down, allowing new growth to emerge. Propagation should be done in the early spring or in the fall.
Catmint is one of those plants that thrives on neglect. Many of the newer varieties of Nepeta are sterile hybrids that produce no viable seeds; a benefit if you don’t like the weedy, self-seeding habit of older catmint varieties. If you want to increase the number of catmint plants, the lack of viable seeds mean that you will need to either buy more plants or propagate new plants from divisions or cuttings.
Choose a full sun location with well-draining soil. A lean soil and somewhat dry growing conditions will encourage both more flowers and a stronger scent. Too much fertilizer will only make the plant grow lots of flimsy foliage.
As with most plants, the mature size of catmint depends on the variety you are growing. Most catmints are floppy, bushy plants that mature at about 10 to 24 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide. However, some varieties are more compact, and others that will grow four feet tall and three feet wide. New catmint varieties are being introduced regularly, so the best thing to do is to shop around and read the plant tag before you buy.
Expect your Nepeta to start blooming in early summer with repeat blooms throughout the growing season. Deadheading or shearing your plants will produce stockier plants and a lush second bloom.
You will get the best flowering if you plant your catmint in full sun, however, the plants will also grow well in partial shade.
Catmint is not a heavy feeder. In the first year after planting, a handful of compost, added to the plant’s base in the fall, is sufficient. In subsequent years, the plant needs no further fertilization.
Catmint Varieties:
The common name hellebore is assigned to several species of plants in the Helleborus genus of the Ranunculaceae family, which also includes monkshood, delphinium, and anemone. Hellebore foliage is thick, evergreen, and forms a low lying clump with leaves that are lobed and palm-like. Hellebores are among the earliest perennial flowers to bloom, welcoming spring with their rose-like blossoms. In warm locales, Helleborus orientalis (commonly called Lenten rose) can bloom outdoors at Christmastime. In colder zones, hellebores will break through the frozen ground early in the spring. Their foliage remains attractive into the summer, so they are suitable for splashy, mass plantings. Be aware that Helleborus niger (commonly called the Christmas rose) and Helleborus orientalis are toxic.
Hellebores are usually planted from potted nursery specimens, even when purchased from online retailers. Hellebore seeds are available, but they are sold in seed packets that include a mix of colors. If you want a particular variety, you will need to purchase potted nursery starts because they have either been selected or hybridized for specific colors.
Hellebores are very easy to grow in shady conditions where most plants struggle, provided they have some shelter from harsh winter winds and receive sunlight in the winter. The only real maintenance the plants require is a little cleanup of the dried leaves. If foliage is winter-worn, it can be cut back to basal growth in the late winter to early spring before flowering.
Hellebores prefer partial to full shade during the summer months but require more sunlight in winter. An ideal planting location is underneath a deciduous tree where they are shaded by foliage in summer but are exposed to full sun after the tree drops its leaves in the fall.
Hellebores grow best in soil that is well-draining and rich with organic matter. If your soil is acidic, consider adding lime, as hellebores prefer neutral or even alkaline conditions. Before amending soil, make sure to do a soil test to determine soil pH levels and nutrient availability.
Although they like some moisture, hellebores should not be allowed to sit in wet soil for a prolonged time or they will rot. Once established, they can handle drier soil.
Types of Hellebore:
Hellebore is not to be confused with false hellebore (Veratrum viride). There are many wonderful hellebore varieties, often sold in a mix of colors. More and more hybrids are being offered in single colors. Here are some favorites:
While tricky to pronounce ("ah-GAH-stuh-kee"), this prolific herbaceous perennial with over 22 different species is well-loved for its ability to lure pollinators. Among these species are plants with more familiar, descriptive names: anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum), licorice mint (Agastache rupestris), and hummingbird mint (Agastache cana). The name "agastache" is derived from the Greek and essentially means a very large ear of grain, referring to the abundant flower spikes. In addition to being a beneficial garden plant, agastache is also beautiful, available in a wide range of vivid colors from light pink to deep purple, blue, red, orange, and white. It has a minty, herby fragrance and can be dried to make a delicious herbal tea.
Native to most of North America, it also has origins in Asia and South America. The most commonly grown type, hummingbird mint (Agastache cana), is indigenous to the southwestern United States and Mexico and is suitable for xeriscape gardens, with its tolerance for the heat and drought of arid climates. Other types are more tolerant of temperate growing conditions, so you may wish to research the different varieties to find out what is best suited to your environment.
Agastache is deer and rabbit resistant, and a veritable magnet for bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. It's also a fairly long-blooming perennial, offering vivid color for weeks in summer. It is a close relative of catmint, another pollinator-friendly flowering perennial.
Like many cottage garden perennials agastache is a prolific grower and reliable for its seasonal color and fragrance. However, because of its desert pedigree, agastache will not grow very well in overly rich or fertile soils, which are often a hallmark of the cottage garden. For this reason, including agastache in a cottage garden setting means planting it in its own separate section alongside other similar plants that like growing conditions with lean soil. These might include sedum, bearded irises, Russian sage, and black-eyed susan. Cutting back spent flower spikes will encourage reblooming and more growth during the bloom season.
Agastache likes full sun and can easily tolerate the hottest sun of the day, so keep this in mind when deciding where to plant it.
This desert plant grows best in lean soils with low levels of nutrients. Adding a bit of sand to loamy soils can improve their suitability for growing agastache.
Varieties:
Valued for its long-lasting clusters of pretty flowers and attractive foliage, award-winning Origanum 'Kent Beauty' (Ornamental oregano) is a semi-evergreen, bushy subshrub with trailing stems densely covered with small, rounded, silver-veined, pendulous, papery pink, cream, nd pale green, hop-like flowers. While the leaves are aromatic, don't add them to your salads as this oregano is usually not used in cooking.
One of the showiest ornamental oreganos, Kent Beauty is perfect for the front of sunny borders, containers, hanging baskets, or window boxes. The charming flowers can be used in dried flower arrangements too. Kent Beauty is a hybrid between Origanum rotundifolium and Origanum scabra. Origanum 'Kents Beauty' grows up to 6-9 in tall (15-22cm) and 8-12 in. wide (20-30cm).
Origanum 'Kents Beauty' thrives in full sun in average, dry to medium, well-drained soils. Good heat and drought tolerance. Intolerant of high humidity. Low maintenance and relatively disease and pest free, this plant is also deer resistant.
An excellent choice for perennial borders, coastal gardens, cottage gardens, rock gardens, Mediterranean gardens or containers. Cut back old flowering stems in early spring to keep the planting tidy and to induce the growth of new leaves. Propagate by division in spring, or by basal cuttings in late spring. Toxic to dogs, toxic to cats, toxic to horses.
Penstemon plants are herbaceous perennials that feature lance-shaped foliage and spikes of tubular flowers. Flower colors include pink, red, white, purple, and (rarely) yellow. The nickname "beardtongue" refers to the pollen-free stamen that protrudes from the flower, resembling a bearded iris in this aspect. This perennial is easy to grow from seeds planted in spring to early summer. It's somewhat slow to start and needs 10 to 21 days to germinate.
Beardtongue plants typically bloom in early summer, filling that gap between the end of spring bulbs and the maturing of summer flowers like coneflowers, yarrow, and coreopsis. Most penstemons are 1 to 3 feet tall, but Palmer’s penstemon can grow up to 6 feet, giving you options for the middle and back of the border. Keep the penstemon flowerbed weeded regularly. A 3-inch layer of organic mulch can help to control weeds, and rock mulch is also a suitable choice. You can cut the spent flower stems back after blooming to help plants look tidy. Penstemons don’t compete well with other plants, so give them plenty of space in the garden.
Plant your beardtongue in an area that receives full sun. Adequate sun exposure helps the tall stalks stay upright and not droop.
The soil for beardtongue must drain very well. These plants are prairie natives and prefer rocky or sandy lean soil types rather than rich garden loam. It’s fine to amend the soil with compost to achieve proper tilth but avoid manure applications.
Penstemons tolerate drought, but 1 inch of water per week in the summer will keep plants vigorous and promote better blooming.
Feed beardtongue plants once a year with organic fertilizer, applied in the fall. Feeding these flowers with conventional bloom-boosting formulas can promote too much growth and can shorten the life of the plants.
Types of Penstemon:
Extremely hardy, Eryngium amethystinum (Amethyst Sea Holly) is a compact perennial with a basal rosette of deeply cut, gray-green leaves, adorned with silver speckles and white veining. from mid to late summer, sturdy branching stems, tinged blue, bear small, thistle-like, blue-to-amethyst flower heads. Each flower head is surrounded by up-curving, silvery bracts. Attractive to bees and butterflies but deer resistant, this is a versatile plant, fitting well into the sunny border. Easier to grow than most, use it at the edge of a border, as a vertical accent or as a focal point.
Sea holly grows in clumps of stiffly erect, branched stems up to 24 in. tall and wide (60 cm). Performs best in full sun in fairly dry, poor to moderately fertile well-drained soils. Drought ad salt tolerant. Excellent choice for gravel gardens, cottage gardens and coastal gardens. May be planted as a single specimen or in groupings. Perfect for cut or dried flower arrangements too!
Although you can cut back flowers stems after flowering the seedheads are a very attractive feature so are usually left over winter. Watch for leaf and bud eelworms, powdery mildew and root rot.
Eryngium is a taprooted plant that transplants poorly and is best left undisturbed once established. Select your site carefully!
Autumn Joy stonecrop—Hylotelephium telephium 'Herbstfreude' (‘Autumn Joy’)—is a popular upright variety of stonecrop, also known as sedum. It is a hybrid plant created by crossing a species of sedum (Sedum telephium) with a species of ice plant (Hylotelephium spectabile). The resulting plant features gray-green, rounded, succulent-like leaves. It blooms in the late summer to fall with tiny, pink, star-shaped flowers that grow in clusters roughly 3 to 6 inches across on top of the plant’s stems. After they bloom, the flowers gradually change in color to a deep rose and then rust before they die when cold fall temperatures arrive. Autumn Joy stonecrop has a moderate growth rate and is best planted in the spring after the threat of frost has passed but before the hot summer temperatures kick in.
When given the right growing conditions, Autumn Joy stonecrop requires minimal maintenance. Selecting a planting site that has lots of light and excellent soil drainage is key for healthy growth. Sitting in soggy soil can kill the plants. But given the right conditions, you generally won’t have to do much in the way of watering or feeding your stonecrop.
Space plants at least 1 foot apart in the garden; they will gradually fill in and form clumps. If you wish, you can cut back the stems in the late spring to limit their height and promote thicker, bushier growth. Some gardeners cut down the stems in the fall after the foliage begins to depreciate, but the stems can also be left to provide winter interest and cut down in the spring before new growth starts. Birds will feed on the dried flower heads over winter.
Autumn Joy prefers to grow in full sunlight, meaning at least six hours of direct light on most days. Shady conditions can make the plant leggy and reduce flower production. But in very hot summer climates, your plants might appreciate some shade in the mid-afternoon.
This plant thrives in sandy or gravelly soil with sharp drainage. But it will tolerate loamy soil provided it is well-drained and not allowed to remain constantly damp.
Autumn Joy does not need much water and has excellent tolerance for drought. Even in the heat of summer, light watering every two weeks or so is sufficient. More frequent watering can cause the roots to rot.
Types of Stonecrop:
These are some other stonecrop varieties that are closely related to Autumn Joy:
Yarrow is a medium-sized plant in the aster family, making it a relative of such well-known landscape plants as tickseed (Coreopsis) and gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) and such wild plants as goldenrod (Solidago) and boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum). Plant yarrow in spring and enjoy it as a long-blooming perennial. It comes in a variety of colors. It is easily identified by its feathery foliage and flattened flower clusters; its foliage releases a pleasant odor when bruised. In addition to being an attractive plant, yarrow has a number of specific uses. Yarrow is toxic to cats, dogs, and horses.
Yarrow thrives across much of the United States except in extreme climates such as deserts and high mountains. A tough plant with a tendency to spread by rhizomes, yarrow may even naturalize in your yard. Before planting one, carefully consider whether it would be all right with you to eventually have multiple yarrow plants in your space.
There are different subspecies and varieties of yarrow that are native across much of the Northern Hemisphere; they usually adapt readily to new homes where they are not native. Sometimes they adapt a little too well: Yarrow plants are considered somewhat invasive. Before planting, you may want to check to be sure that the type you've selected is not an invasive plant that will push out other, local flora.
Yarrow plants have to be staked in some situations, or else you may find the stems flopped down on the ground after high winds. Provide yarrow with full sun to keep its form compact, to encourage optimal blooming, and to discourage fungal attacks. Good drainage is all yarrow asks for. It will tolerate clay soil better than many plants, but it grows best with good drainage. It flourishes in multiple soil types and isn't a heavy feeder. Once established, yarrow is drought-tolerant. Because overwatering can promote the fungal diseases to which yarrow is prone, it is better to err on the side of under-watering the plant in all but the driest of conditions.
As a plant that can thrive across as wide a swath as zones 3 to 9, yarrow is quite tolerant of weather conditions. It is cold-hardy and can take heat well enough to grow in zone 9. But, south of that, it can succumb to the humidity, being prone to fungal diseases such as powdery mildew that are exacerbated by humid conditions.
Types of Yarrow:
There are several cultivars of yarrow to choose from; all can be grown in zones 3 to 9:
The old-fashioned Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spectabilis) has been a garden favorite for years. It bears long, arching racemes of heart-shaped pink flowers. Bloom time starts here in early May and lasts several weeks, subsiding with the arrival of summer heat. Plants often go dormant in midsummer. Interplant with Ferns and Hostas to fill the breach. Long-lived and reliable year after year.
About 15 species make up this genus of perennials native to Asia and North America. The common name derives from the unusual heart shape of the flowers and protruding inner petals. Most Dicentras prefer evenly moist soil, and little or no direct sun. Some varieties, including a selection of Fern-leaf or Western types, offer a greater tolerance of sun and heat, their foliage and blossoms persisting for an extended period where moisture is steady.
Wildlife value:
Wildlife seems to adore this plant as much as we do, due to a variety of attractants. The nectar-rich flowers attract hummingbirds, bumble bees, and syrphid flies, while the foliage may be consumed by the larvae of clodius parnassian butterflies in parts of its range. Aphids like it too, but don’t worry—the birds who like to eat them should keep them in check (especially if you have other natives to attract them). In addition to birds, unnoticeable predators such as the developing larvae of some species of syrphid flies can eat as many as 500 aphids (each!) before they become adults. In landscapes where predators and prey are allowed to exist, a naturalistic balance soon results.
If ingested, all parts may cause stomach upset, the foliage may aggravate skin allergies. Bleeding hearts are toxic to animals as well.
Philedelphus lewisii (Wild Mock Orange) is a fountain-shaped, loosely branched, deciduous shrub with long arching stems clothed with oval, soft green leaves turning yellow in the fall.
Flowering for several weeks in late spring to early summer, a profusion of very fragrant, cup-shaped, 4-petaled, white flowers, 2 in. across (5 cm), are borne in clusters at the end of the stems. At the height of flowering, the shrub is literally covered in a mass of blossoms. The flowers exude a delightfully sweet fragrance reminiscent of orange blossoms with a hint of pineapple. The branches are red when new and fade to gray with age, the bark shredding in small flakes.
Philadelphus lewisii makes a great background shrub or specimen plant. It grows up to 5-12 ft. tall (150-360 cm) and 6-12 ft. wide (180-360cm). A full sun to partial shade lover, this plant is tolerant of a wide variety of conditions, from moist to dry soils,. drought tolerant, though sometimes a little additional water can help it to thrive and flower more vigorously. Blooms on previous year's wood, so prune immediately after flowering. Old plants can be rejuvenated after flowering by cutting old wood back to the ground.
Generally pest and disease free. Keep an eye out for leaf spot, canker, powdery mildew and rust.
Native to western North America, from northwestern California in the Sierra Nevada, north to southern British Columbia, and east to Idaho and Montana.
Showy milkweed provides two attractive components to your garden. First of all, it bears lovely rosy purple flowers. Secondly, it is also a great plant for attracting butterflies and hummingbirds. In autumn, the flowers are succeeded by striking seed pods up to three inches long.
The pods split open at maturity to reveal the seeds within. A cotton-like fluff is attached to the seeds, allowing them to be spread by the wind. When the stem of showy milkweed is broken, a milky sap runs out of it, accounting for the common name "milkweed." The leaves are large and up to 8 inches long, oval, bluish-green, and have prominent veins.
Showy milkweed resembles common milkweed, but it can be distinguished from the latter in two ways:
Showy milkweed is perhaps most valued as being a host plant for the larvae (caterpillars) of monarch butterflies. Learn how to give showy milkweed the optimal conditions that it needs to put on a spectacular show in your landscape.
Be aware that Showy Milkweed has qualities that are toxic to humans and animals.
Showy milkweed is easy to grow. It tolerates drought and poor soils. It may perform better in such ground than it does in soils that are wet and very fertile.
To prevent the plant from spreading, simply cut off the seed pods before they open.
Once the plant becomes established, avoid trying to transplant it, since showy milkweed has a deep taproot. At planting time, select a spot for it in the landscape where you know you will want it to grow for several years.
Varieties of Milkweed, Related Plants:
Asclepias is only one of many genera that belong to the Apocynaceae family. Other members of the family include:
Even within the Asclepias genus, there are many other species. They come in different heights and colors.
Rubus parviflorus (Thimbleberry) is a beautiful, thicket-forming, deciduous shrub adorned with a dense foliage of velvety, maple-like, green leaves.
From late spring to mid-summer, fragrant white flowers, 2 in. (5 cm), appear in showy clusters. They are followed by vibrant scarlet berries which mature in mid to late summer and compliment the lush foliage. The stems are thornless, making fruit harvest easier. Fruits may be eaten directly off the shrub or used to make flavorful jams and jellies. They are also aluable seasonal food for birds and mammals. The leaves turn brilliant orange to maroon shades in fall.
While self-fertile, Thimbleberry will produce more berries if several shrubs are present.
Native to western and northern North America, Thimbleberry is found in a range of habitats but prefers moist and open sites. It is found in shrublands, riparian zones, and deciduous, coniferous, and mixed forests. It is most commonly found in riparian zones and along forest margins and is abundant in disturbed areas.
Grows up to -8 ft. tall and wide (120-240 cm). A full sun to part shade lover, this plant is best grown in organically rich, slightly acidic, moist but well-drained soils. Can tolerate brief seasonal flooding. Perfect for informal hedges, bird and wildlife gardens, and erosion control on banks and slopes.
Flowers and fruits are produced on two-year old canes (previous season's growth),. Remove canes that have fruited immediately after the fruit is harvested, leaving the new non-fruiting canes to overwinter. Remove any non-fruiting canes that are crowded, spindly, or diseased. In late winter, remove any damaged canes and thin the remaining canes as needed, leaving only healthy, well-spaced canes.
Watch out for leaf spots, anthracnose, botrytis, powdery mildew, spur blight, root rots, cane borers, and crown bores. Aphids can be troublesome.
Native to western and northern North America.
These are just some of the most common Oregon Native Perennials; here is a link to other types of perennials & growing environments in the Pacific Northwest -->